General Robert H. Dunlap Marine Training Military Base closed and was handed back to California in the 1970s.
I wonder what he would say about this place that once beard his name. Nestled three miles east of the California Hwy 111, at the foothills of the Chocolate Mountains in the Colorado Desert, is a small community of campers called Slabbers. Slab City, also just knows as The Slabs, is a one of kind community. It might be one of the few places in the United States where laws and regulations aren’t enforced.
Day 1 - We began our Slab City experience when we entered this ex-military base which is converted to an area where anyone, and I mean anyone can come here and set up home in a RV, tent, car or a box if that's the way you fly.
My first thought was, what a dirty scummy place but than I thought this is what many call home.
This is totally off the grid. This is a place in America that is loaded with loners, runners, moderate and heavy drug users, kids without parents, and very real down to earth people who are knowledged in many ways with dry camping ideas. Artist, runaways, and many more styles of people live here. There are also full time RVers just like us. The ages range from newborns to people in their final years of life. What is it that people travel here to see? What is everyone talking about? Why do some even come here year after year after year?
How I would explain my first day? We met a few very nice men who have their own community or cul-de-sac. I will use first names only to basically protect everyone's identity. These men Dave, Seann, Bob and a few others all look to be in their 60s on up, living in very nice campers and they all have families elsewhere. We sat around a fire the first night listening to them rage on each other and talk about some of the many days they spent here. Shawn is a very knowledged person who is a retired letter carrier from Canada. He has quite the set up for a home including 10+ deep cell batteries and solar that could give him enough power to carry him for a few days. They talked about all the places to go and we were even offered a 4 dollar tour from Chili Bob, which we will take him up on. After a few hours of chat I got very little sleep and much worry that maybe someone would swipe our generator that is secured outside. The next morning, after a security check of our property, all was fine.
Day 2- I hoped to interview two or three people who live here and why. That never happened, instead we walked around visiting monumental areas like Salvation Mountain and the Oasis. Both which were very interesting in their own ways.
The "Mountain" appears to be the pull that gets people to stop. This massive mound of dirt and hay has been put together like a pueblo home with a mixture of water and dirt. After that there is a very thick coat of paint that covers everything. Blues, yellows, greens, and a rainbow of eye grabbing colors that bring you closer. As you get to Salvation Mountain, you learn that there are cave like rooms and dens deviding this area, a stroll around and you will see memorials, letters, small writings from the many many people and visitors who have come here. There's no crying in baseball and I see no reason to cry here as everything is warm and inviting. For a quick stop visitor who just sees this, there missing the grunt of Slab City. The land and the way people live.
For instance there are a hodgepodge of campers and tents and just anything that could become a wall for a persons home. Is it sad? Is it a bad situation that people can not get out of? In some cases I believe so, in others I believe they have gotten so comfortable with this way of living that they really can not change.
A woman and her husband are from Oregon, her story is. We are here because we have financial problems and need to stay here for a while until we can pay our debt and move on. They have been here for nearly two years, I really don't think they are going anywhere. I may be wrong but I think she has a drug or alcohol problem and this is the real why.
The Oasis is a place to for members, I laugh at the term bc the membership will pay for itself if you are a coffee drinker at best. 25 bucks for a year to be able to wake up and join others for a morning cup of Joe and some wifi. There are also parties there as this is a make ship bar or tavern. What's that you ask, would I become a member if I was a fulltime Slab City resident? Maybe.
A woman who we met in this Oasis, tells us of her intelligent mind as a criminal psychologist. She also goes on telling us of her bi-polar disorder. She continues talking and trying to be intimidating by saying if she had to snap she could. Honestly what I see is a person who again can not get out of this situation and or is so comfortable that she chooses not to get out of it. If she has a mental issue she needs help not a buzz from an illegal drug.
Day - 3 Sleeping much better as we are starting to understand this is a way of life for so many and not a place to have your property stolen, although I would never overlook that possibility. Safe lock everything and sleep with one eye open. Wake up refreshed and ready to go.
We are meeting today with a 75+ year old man named Chili Bob, he is going to take us on a tour of Slab City. I am looking forward to this because I truly believe we will see things we would have over looked had we tried to tour this place alone.
Chili Bob is a very nice man who as I stated is in his upper 70s. Seems he was married for most of his life before losing his wife ten years ago. He hails from Grand Junction, Co. and is known for his awesome chili giving him the name "chili bob"
What an amazing tour with an amazing man. Bob who is 79 has a youthful attitude and understands Slab City very well. He is a native of Colorado and has been coming here for some 7 years. 79 you ask? Yes, all his children have visited him while he was out here, not all together but one on one. He does not live here full time only November to March. Our first stop was a place known as East Jesus.
Which has no connection to or with Jesus. Its more of an artistic place for modern art and art being anything you can build. We went to areas we never would have seen or found outside of the Slab as well. Sonny Bono Bird Refugee, active steam and water volcanos, many farm areas and also shhhh the actual area where the Navy Seals train for missions like the one that sent Usama Bin Louden to see Allahh.
After a well informed morning of Slab City, and its surroundings you start to realize that it is not a bad place to live but only a dirty place as garbage is blown all over and no one seems to want to agree that the garbage must be removed.
What I see is some people are just set in their way as to if it's on the ground in front of me, I am just going to walk around it till it blows to another area of the city.
Dumpsters are talked about and used in some areas but to truly clean this area up, it would take at least 100 large dumpsters just to start. Understand anyone can come here look for an area of this place, stake it out in anyway possible as long as it is not permanent and call it home. There is not electric, water, or sewers.
That, you have to do on your own by going out and dumping and re filling your RV tanks. What you do get an abundance of is
SUNSHINE. So bring your solar brain with you and you are a head of some. We again met a wonderful man who we agree we will see again whether it is here or somewhere else. Heck he has invited us to his crib for a visit in Grand Junction should we be passing through. Thanks Chili Bob, you are a super dude!!
Day - 4 - Wow! Is it really day 4 in here, seems to be going fast as we get to know the lay of the land and that most of these people are regular people like you and I. Although like in all communities there are a few bad apples. This is a city where laws are for the most part thrown out, obviously series crimes will be enforced. What I mean is that if there is a disagreement between a few people, it may get taken care of like they did in the old western times, "DRAW!" OK "FIGHT!"
What I am trying to say is its starting to feel like a nice place but still the garbage all around is really the issue between whether we would hangout around here next time, should there be a next time?
Oh I did not mention that we decided to treat everyone in our little circle to dinner tonight, looks like its Italian! Pasta and marinara sauce, YUM!!
Pretty easy day a I just had to feed the community. They loved it, we had fun and we all were full by days eveing. Like I said, a great day!!!
Day - 5 and 6 I took a break from blogging and just enjoyed the area. We did many things but most just normal everyday activity. Although there was an acoustic musical party we were invited to and I have to say that the music was great!! Finding a good voice was not so great. Still Radio Mike a native NYer puts on quite a show!! We met two wonderful people from Toronto, Jim and Adrienne who are also touring the Slab, Jim is a photographer for a magazine and Adrienne is keeping him company, so he doesn't get lost. lol These tow have gotten close to us as we seem to have a lot in common. When they leave we will miss them.
Day 7 We woke from a night of open mic at the Range, an area that resembles an arena for bands and such.
Most music was fair but when they opened their mouths to sing the song became an amateur attempt to making music. Don't get me wrong, I did hear a few nice voices but for the most part we were forced to punish ourselves with some terrible ear infections.. Today our small community is having a pancakes social with real maple syrup from Canada, compliments Seann.
After 9 days of staying where we thought would only be 2, we decided we must move on. Leaving with a blanket of memories that will forever be in my mind. There are so many stories and reasons why people live here. Its not a dark hole or a place that should not be seen, its more of a learning experience that made me realize how hard my mother worked at showing us children that life takes hard work. Summing up the week, I would say. Dirty, dusty, a lot of trash and a society that handles evictions in a way no one else does. They burn you out and leave your vehicle so you can be on your way.
It is also a community that has to be strong when times get tough. Sleeping in a place that was created by the surroundings whether its boxes, tents, under a tree with blankets inclosing them and in a lot of cases beat up campers that would not be capable of travel. I am sure no one wants to stay there but many find it is a place that before you know it, it grows on you. I hope all find their path out and find the path that lead them to happiness unless that has already happened in the Slabs.